Girls Just Wanna Have Fun (and Surf)

At the airport now, completely exhausted and heartbroken that my week in Sayulita has come to a close. I arrived here with a modge-podge of feelings, but now, on the other side of the week, I’m deeply indebted to the life-changing experiences I’ve had.

We have so much to catch up on, so this recap will be a mix of my favorite and chaotic moments from the latter part of the week. Sunday was Prachi’s last day in Sayulita, which meant it was tattoo day!

For some context: Prachi and I went to Los Angeles together in 2021 as newly 18-year-olds, traveling without our parents for the first time. It was our first “big-girl” trip, and we had wanted to commemorate it with tattoos. But after a panicked phone call with our parents, complete with screaming on their end, we were firmly instructed to return home tattoo-less. So we didn’t go through with it. While I still don’t think I would’ve regretted the tattoo I had in mind, Prachi is genuinely grateful to the heavens above that she didn’t get one back then.

This time, though, she knew she was ready. She spontaneously decided to get a playful monkey tattooed on her left arm. She enjoyed this trip, thought the monkey was cute, and honestly, sometimes that’s reason enough to go through with the permanence of inking something on your body.

While Prachi was prepping for her tattoo, I was throwing back Pacificos like I was hydrating during my half marathon back in April. I wasn’t getting a tattoo, so I was prepping to be the best cheerleader she needed at that moment. Not because, and I repeat, not because of how yummy a crisp cold Pacifico is on a hot sunny day.

When we arrived at the tattoo parlor, Carlos, the artist, immediately eased Prachi’s nerves. He worked with her to brainstorm the vision and placement and tossed in fun anecdotes about growing up on the mountainside in Mexico and now living by the ocean. We spent the later hours of the evening fully absorbing the process, and I’m so glad I could be there for another one of Prachi’s firsts. Just one more thing to add to the list we share together.

Around 7:15 p.m., Carlos wrapped up Prachi's arm, gave us the warmest and most genuine hug a stranger has ever given, and we ran through the north side of town to catch the sunset on the beach! Sunsets are to me as a charger is to a phone. They are completely my favorite part of the day, because, for no reason other than a beautiful ending to a day, people gather around and clap as the sun sinks into the other side of the world. I’ve had the privilege of seeing sunsets all over the world, from the sea, from mountaintops, from a plane, from home, cozy in bed. Tonight’s sunset was different. I felt so overwhelmed by its rare beauty and the gravity of its feminine energy that I started to cry. I’m an extremely open person, but sharing my intimate emotions of happiness never manifests with tears, so it was very special that this sunset on the beach, with my best friend and hundreds of strangers, showed me that I am exactly where I am meant to be. I have all the love I could possibly ask for. And after today, I have a little more self-love to give.

Monday, early morning, Prachi traveled back to Texas, and I was back on my solo-travel kick. Except I really wasn’t solo. Over the past few days, I’d gotten to know so many people in the hostel and in town that it was almost impossible not to run into a friendly face. That day, I was taking my first official surf lesson with Tatêi Surf Girls, and joining me were Lucy, Jade, and my new bunkmate, Tuğçe.

Thania, the Sagittarius and surfing badass I was telling you about in the last recap, texted us saying she wanted to move class up by an hour so we could catch a sunset bonfire on the beach afterward. We were all game, so she picked us up around 3 p.m. and we drove to La Lancha.

I think La Lancha was my favorite beach by far. In order to access it, you had to trek through the jungle for 15 minutes, navigating wooden planks the size of tightropes, trees branching low, and mud piles accumulated from recent rains. Not too bad, but then imagine doing all this with a surfboard on your head, because that’s exactly what we had to do.

It’s in these moments that I’m really thankful for the energy I’ve been putting into my physical fitness. For the past year, I’ve been running and working out consistently, knowing that my body deserves the same energy I put into everything else and everyone else. I even remember last year, before my trip to Costa Rica, wanting to build more endurance before surfing there. I was only two months in, so not much had changed. But this time around, over a year in, I really noticed a physical difference that allowed me to surf so much better, with more strength, endurance, proper posture, and the cutest smile on my face.

Kenzie, my surf instructor for the day, was so giddy every time I caught a wave. I’d turn back and she would be jumping up and down in the water, celebrating my win. She even gave me tips she’s picked up over the years from other surfer girls, things I wouldn’t have even thought about, or that a male instructor might not know to share. Our bodies are just different. That doesn't mean we’re not capable of catching the same surf, it just means we have to go about the process in a way that’s meant for us. So in yet another beautiful sport that’s unfortunately dominated by men, it was incredibly powerful and impactful to learn from these women.

Soon into the lesson, Kenzie was barely pushing me, and I was practically catching waves on my own. Between surf breaks, she told me about how she uprooted her life in Canada to move to Sayulita, and how this town is truly an energy source for many. I understood exactly what she meant. In those moments in the ocean, laying flat on my board, watching the trickles of sunshine sparkle on the water, I felt peaceful. I was completely present.

We made the hike through the jungle back to the car, but this time infinitely more tired from all the arm and core strength poured into the surfing sesh. Also, a little more drafty, since Jade and I forgot to pack undies and were both wearing flowy skirts. There were several moments I could’ve slipped and fallen, and in the mud, you would’ve seen me fighting for my life in a very vulnerable state, but thankfully, that did not happen. Thania drove us back to the hostel so we could grab underwear and meat to BBQ at the bonfire.

Miscommunication seems to be a common theme when planning with her, but don’t ever think that’s a bad thing. Tagging along with her always exceeded whatever expectations you had. We were driving to the “bonfire,” only to realize we weren’t going to a public beach. We were headed to a gated villa, tucked away 30 minutes into the jungle, called Palapa Ganesh (look it up, it’s fucking insane). I guess bonfire is code for an epic villa in the middle of nowhere where there will be a bonfire, amongst many other things, according to Thania.

We parked the car and walked through the most luxurious setup of pools, loungers, and a magnificent common area overlooking the sunset on the ocean. Our jaws dropped to the floor. I couldn’t fucking believe it. We watched the sunset, sipping on our Pacificos, then made our way down to the (private) beach steps below the villa for a bonfire with some of the finer men in life, friends of Thania’s (and, I guess, the mansion owner). We roasted marshmallows, listened to good music, and I think a joint was being passed around at one point. It was heaven on earth, okay?

Thania and I had a lovely heart-to-heart, talking about how life should be this, an adventure. A time when you’re not afraid to authentically show up for yourself and what you want. Because you never know whose villa you’ll end up at…

She and the others had me throw a piece of firewood into the bonfire and make a wish, since it was my first ever bonfire on the beach. I’ve run into sacred moments like this before, where I turn into a golden retriever, so giddy that all I can think is, ‘I’m already living out my true wish.’ I’m unemployed, though, so I made sure not to waste the wish and carefully placed the wood atop the fire.

The men BBQed for us, and we ate the most delectable carne asada and chorizo tacos by the pool. It was the true definition of indulgence, feeling all the flavors and textures dance in our mouths, salsa dripping down my hands, feet plunged into the cold pool after a long, tiring day of surfing.

I fell into a deep conversation with Jade, Lucy, and Tuğçe, a moment I’ll always hold close to my heart. It reminded me that strength in relationships, and moments like these, doesn’t have to come from knowing someone “forever.” You could’ve met them yesterday and still recognize that they are just as human as you will ever be.

We left the night in a beautiful haze, still unsure how we stepped into all of its spontaneity. We also were unsure why electricity and water had to go out the same day we had really done our big one with getting wet, muddy, and sandy. I showered under what felt like an AC drainage rite of passage in NYC (if you know, you know). The rest of the girls didn’t even bother.

The next day, my last day, Jade, Lucy, and I ran into Thania during our breakfast at North Shore Cafe. I spent the afternoon soaking up the views from the Viajero Hostels rooftop one last time, and then we embarked on our last surfing class at La Lancha. Same walk through the jungle, but when it came time to surf, I was wiping out way more compared to the day before. I was feeling very discouraged, and even became fearful as my energy and confidence plummeted. But Thania said something to me. She told me to look the waves in the eye. She told me to swim towards them. There is a new confidence we gain through surfing. That carries into all other areas of life. She helped me realize how much bigger we are compared to our fears.

So I kept trying. Thania showed me how to turtle for when a wave crashed right in front of me. She even cheered me on as I pushed myself into the waves! That evening, I had pushed myself into three big, beautiful waves. It was fucking liberating. The transformation, from fearing the gigantic, surging crash of a wave to swimming straight into it, flipping beneath the wave, to then pushing myself out, was astronomical. The things we fear the most are the things we are meant to do. All for the simple realization that we are not working against anything, but in tandem.

I was over the moon as I stepped back onto the sandy beach. But, the feeling quickly swept over me when it started downpouring, and we still had a walk through the jungle, surfboard on top of our heads, to look forward to… Almost slipped multiple times, but didn’t, so I’ll take the win!

That evening was not only my last, it was Techno Tuesday and the start of Lucy’s birthday celebrations! It was an incredibly full-circle night for me because I had landed on a Tuesday, and now I was leaving exactly one week later. The first night, though fun, I was definitely still getting my bearings, dancing to the tunes but definitely stiff, keeping an eye on the time, and leaving pretty early.

That last night… Lucy, Jade, Tuğçe, Joss, Mark, and I ran through the rain to get tacos and margs. We got one last round of Pacificos at a beach bar and then rang in Lucy’s birthday at YamBak with 2-for-1 shots and margs, unz-unzing by the DJ until we decided to move the party over to Don Pato for reggaeton. I knew absolutely everyone out, I felt so free dancing with my girls, and I really didn’t know what time it was until I was pulled out of there around 3:30 a.m.

I ran up that hill to the hostel that night. RAN. And then we ate chips and stale pasta while Joss tried to figure out how to get into his room that was locked.

I left the next morning after breakfast, giving out bittersweet hugs to the gals who made my stay in Sayulita so magical. Traveling will always be a fleeting glimpse of what we wish could last forever, and because of that, these reflections are my notes of adoration to the incredible women I met there, my best friend of ten years, and all the powerful female friendships I’ve had the honor of sharing throughout my life, all over the world. If we’ve crossed paths, I want you to know the impact you’ve had, and how deeply grateful I am for the sunsets we shared, the drinks we sipped, the landscapes we marveled at, the conversations we had, the dances we danced, and the heartbeats we experienced side by side.